Thursday, May 23, 2013

Waterfall



1. Control Shot
     -Switch your camera to auto mode, and make sure your flash is off. When you take the image, look at the exposure your camera uses.
2. Shutter Priority
    -Try to get a shutter speed between 1-2 seconds to get a blurred waterfall like above. Of ocurse with increasing the shutter speed, you'll be getting more light inside your camera overexposing your image.
3. Timing
     -Sunrise and sunset times are best since there isnt as much light.
4. Filter
    -Using a polarized filter not only cuts down the lighting that gets into your shot but also helps improve your images.
5. Aperture Priority Mode
    -If you still have problems with your images being over exposed, switch to this mode and choose the smallest aperture possible.
6. Low ISO
    -This means that your shutter will need to be open longer.
7. Bracket your shots
    -Take a series of shots at different shutter speeds and apertures.
8. Composition
     -Try different positions of a waterfall and expierement with how it looks at different shutter speeds.

Black & White



1. RAW
    -For most control in the after production phase, you will need to shoot in RAW mode. Of course if your camera doesnt offer the RAW option, shooting in JPEG will be just fine (:
2. Shoot in Color
    -If your camera wont allow you to shoot in RAW, shoot in color and then change it on your computer to black and white. Although many cameras have a setting button to go ahead and change the pictire to B&W for you.
3. Low ISO
    -Shoot in the lowest possible ISO, this is very improtant when getting black and white shots.
4. When to Capture
    -An overcast or dark day is a good day to shoot outdoors.
5. Compostition
     -The main difference between shooting in B&W rather than color is that you cant use color to catch the eye of the viewer. Be sure to look at shapes, angles, textures, and tones to find points of interest.

Night Sky


1. What will you need?
    -Camera with manual exposure mode
    -Remote control or shutter release cable to minimize the shaking of the camera.
    -Tripod
2. Choosing the Spot
     -The darker the better. Try to get away from city lights, your images will turn out better. 
3. Settings
    -First you should try to use a lens with a large aperture and at a high ISO. 
    -Use the rule 600, which is divide 600 by the focal length of the lens you are using. 
    -Put your lens in manual mode and use infinity focus.
4.Taking Images
   -Take at least 5 composite images using the correct exposure time. Do not move the camera or change your camera settigns until you are dont with the set. When you are done with a series just take you hand to make the image black so when you look over your images, you'll know when your series end. :)
5. Edit
    -If you dont see colors in your images, dont worry about it. You need to edit and brighten them up on any editing photo device.
   -Stack your images. This is so it will superimpose one image on top of the others of the same series. Use default settings on the software. I use Deep Sky Stacker.
  -Next open your TIF file and change the curves and levels.
View your images and enjoy! :D

Friday, May 17, 2013

Farm Photography Tips

1. Prepare for Dust and Dirt
    -Wear clothes you can get dirty in. You may end up in mud or have animals jump up on you. Be sure to keep the lens cap on.
2. Look Before You Shoot
    -Look for what is most interesting about a certain farm. Think about what you want to take pictures of before you begin.
3. Circle your Target
     -Walk around what you've decided to take a picture of so you can see what angle you want to capture.
4. Background
    -Look all around your image for background. Make sure it won't take away from the main subject.
5. Animals
    -Try to avoid half animals in the background and look for a plain background.
6. Sun
    -The bright sunny summer days are not the best time to take images. Bright overcast days are usually the best.
7. Lighting the Landscape
    -Find good, strong directional lighting. Cross lighting with the sun at your side will show up in textures in plowed land, rows, and furrows much better than if the sun is directly behind you.
8. Inside
    -Go inside buildings and look around. The lighting will be at your side and and improve portraits of people.
9. Better Building
    -Find older buildings. It will make a better background for images.
10. Manual Work
      -Experiment with your camera. Don't just stay on auto.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Concerts


1. Equipment
    -Due to the low lighting, we'll need to use lenses with an open aperture of f/2.8, f/1.8. f/1.4 and using cameras that allow us to take images at an high ISO rate without any noise. 
-Be sure to use a high shutter speed to freeze the singer or instrumentalist movements. 
2. Exposure
    - Shoot in raw so you can then compensate for exposure if its necessary so when you save your images you'll have some overexposed or under-exposed. 
3. Flash?
    -The flash really doesn't do anything. It doesn't make the singer light up anymore than he or she already is. If you are far from the stage, turn your flash off. If you are close to the stage and you have your flash on, the singer will be brighter, but the background will be darker so you'll end up loosing all surroundings and atmosphere. So try to avoid using your flash, it will just lighten the smoke around you or the people in front of you.
4. Spot Light
    -If you are far from the stage and you're waiting for the singer to come on stage, wait until the spotlight narrows in on the artist. 
5. Silhouettes 
    -Choose a silhouette that is very clear so the viewer can understand what the image is. Use this when they're are no lights on the artist, just on the back banner. 
6. Color
     -Most concerts always use the color red. Be sure that the red color will not burn so you don't loose the data in these areas. Try to take the photo a little underexposed in raw then add some brightness in photoshop. 
7. Composition
     -Be sure to have a story along with the images, such as just a the guitar by itself, the whole band together. 

**This type of photography isn't easy but with some practice, you'll get the hang of it**


Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Newborn Baby's


1. Posed vs. Lifestyle
    -Posed: must be done within 2 weeks of birth, when the baby is still very sleepy and moldable. This could take up to 4 hours with feedings, diaper changing and posing.
    -Lifestyle: A more casual approach to photographing newborns. These can be done up to 6 weeks old and take up to 1-2 hours.

2. Be Prepared
    -Be sure to pack the night before. Most of these sessions take place at the home.
     Be sure to bring:
          -Camera and back up camera.
          -Formatted Memory Cards
          -Lenses
          -Few Kid Toys
          -Newborn posing beanbag
          -Backdrop stand and clamps
          -Space Heater
          -Step Stool
          -Props
          -Big Blankets for Backgrounds
          -Small Swaddle Blankets
          -Hats and Headbands
          -Loud enough music to block out the surprising noise of the shutter.

3. Let The Baby Inspire You
     -Have some poses in mind before you arrive. Be sure to capture the uniquness.
4. Go Macro
     -If your camera has a macro mode or if you can use a macro lens, use it to isolate a single body part such as a hand, foot, ear, mouth, etc.
5. Find Angles
    -Get down low. Get to their level. It may be difficult with focal length,but you'll end up with great shots.
    -Close Ups. Get in close by either physically moving closer or using a greater focal length.
6. Take Out the Color
    -This can soften your images somewhat. Instead of going complete black and white, leave a little bit of color in your shots and you'll end up with pastel colors that can soften your images.